The XSR 700 was a popular model that had numerous variations of its drive chain. The Yamaha XSR700 was a popular model and came in a variety of drive chain variations.
The XSR 700 drive chain is an important part. It is extended, used, and eventually reaches the end of its life. The most common problem that riders face is when that moment comes.
Ride a worn chain too long, and it does harm to the sprockets! Don’t replace it too soon and lose money. If you know the signs, then it’s easy to make the decision.
Here’s how to determine whether your Yamaha XSR 700 drive chain needs replacing.
But what exactly does happen when a chain gets worn? Let’s take a look at the consequences of a worn chain.
A drive chain is not an elastic beast
The cross-section does not vary from link to link. The useful pitch of the chain is increased.
Within each chain link is a pin in a bushing. The bushing is located inside a roller. The pins and bushings wear microscopically as the chain rotates a thousand times or more, even under load. The wear is very small for each wear. The elongation is multiplied by 108 or 112 links and is substantial.
This stretching causes the chain to not fit tightly against the sprocket tooth space. The rollers ride up on the teeth, rather than seating cleanly in the tooth valleys. This will cause the sprocket to wear out and cause the chain to skip, and make noise.
Sealed chains with O-ring or X-ring seals retain the factory grease within each roller for extended life as compared to unsealed chains. The XSR 700 is factory sealed. Even so, over time, wear occurs on the pin and bushing’s outside contact points.
The 20-Link Measurement Test is a method. The 20-Link Measurement Test is a method of measuring.
The best method for determining chain wear
It needs a steel rule or a chain-wear gauge dedicated to this.
Place a part of the chain on the top chain of the motorcycle, and with the tension at a normal level, find a piece of chain between the front sprocket and rear sprocket. This section is the one with the least variation in tension for taking measurements.
Put a ruler with the center end at the center of a pin. Count through 20 pins and measure from the 21st pin to the center of the 22nd pin.
If the chain has 520 pitches, then one chain link is exactly 320 mm when new, and the chain has 20 chain links. The chain is at the service limit and has stretched out to about 323mm long or more.
Take measurements at two or three points around the chain and use the highest measurement. This will compensate for any tight spots or uneven wear in a particular area.
When measuring 323mm or more on a 520 chain, it’s time for replacement. Don’t wait for further elongation.
This reading can be obtained much more quickly with a chain wear indicator tool without performing any calculations. These fit over the chain and tell you right away if they are worn or not. They are reasonably priced and a good thing to have in your tool bag.
Check Chain Slack Adjustment Range (ISA)
XSR 700 has chain adjuster bolts at the back axle. The amount of adjustment available is an indicator of the condition of the chain.
A new chain starts with the adjusters near the front of the adjustment range. The adjusters slide to the rear along the chain as the chain extends during its service life to keep the slack correct.
Once the adjusters have gone past the rear end of the travel, the chain will no longer be tensioned properly. Even if there are no other signs, the chain will need to be replaced at this time.
This is a helpful second test. However, be careful not to wait until the adjusters are at the maximum. If the chain is worn to that extent, it’s likely that the sprockets have already suffered damage.
Verify where you are positioned in the total travel of your adjuster. If you are in the middle or back of the adjustment range and you don’t know when the last time you replaced your chain was, check the chain.
To conduct the lift test at the rear sprocket, the team should follow these steps:
A very rapid physical test, no tools required
Stand next to the motorcycle and hold the chain on the back sprocket at the 3 o’clock mark. Attempt to remove the chain from the sprocket in a radial direction.
Very little movement occurs on a new or good chain. The chain is tightly fitted against the sprocket teeth and rises relatively slightly.
Play on a worn chain. The chain can be stretched apart, and light can be seen between the chain rollers and sprocket teeth.
When the chain and sprocket wear are both severe, you can remove it more than halfway up one of the sprocket’s teeth. Both need replacement.
This test is not as accurate as the 20-link measurement, but it is quick and provides you with a helpful indication in seconds.
Use visual inspection to look for specific damage
Not all of the chain failures are wear-related. They are damage-related. These are detected by visual inspection.
Screwed up linkages. Rigid or frozen links.
Turn the back wheel a bit and observe the chain passing over the front sprocket. All links should flow together. When a stiff link appears, it’s when the chain doesn’t flex as it goes over the sprocket and creates a kink. Rigid links will lead to irregular power transmission and rapid sprocket wear.
O-rings or X-rings that are cracked or missing
Run your finger down inside the chain between the side plates. The rubber seals between each inner plate should be felt. If there are missing or cracked seals, the grease inside has leaked out. The chain is not lubricated and is beginning to wear out in that section.
Leaks on the side plates or rollers
Surface rust is a cosmetic problem. If the chain shows deep pitting around the rollers or on the inner plates, it means that the chain has been run dry and/or subjected to corrosive conditions. Excessive rust reduces the strength of the chain.
Crack or bend the sides of the plate
This is uncommon but a serious condition. If the side plate is bent, then the chain has been subjected to a large shock load. Any chain that shows any plate damage should be replaced immediately. Do not ride on it.
Chain sections that are blue or black with color changes
Heat discoloration means that the chain has been kept very dry or has been rubbing up against something. Weakened areas and damaged internal seals are likely.
Listening and Feeling While Riding
Your senses are diagnostic tools.
A worn chain on the XSR 700 often produces a rhythmic ticking or slapping sound during deceleration when the chain goes slack. It may also produce a rough, vibrating sensation through the footpegs that is distinct from normal engine vibration.
If the chain occasionally skips or jumps under hard acceleration, the rollers are riding over the sprocket teeth rather than seating in them. This is advanced wear and requires immediate attention.
A chain that vibrates excessively at certain speeds often has a tight spot from a stiff link. This creates uneven tension cycling that you feel as a pulse through the bike’s rear end.
These sensations are harder to quantify than measurement tests, but they are real indicators. If the bike feels different through the drivetrain, investigate.
The Sprocket Connection
You cannot assess the chain condition in isolation from the sprocket condition.
A worn chain accelerates sprocket wear. Worn sprockets accelerate chain wear. They work together, and they fail together.
Whenever you are evaluating chain replacement, inspect the sprockets simultaneously. Look at the front sprocket closely by removing the sprocket cover. Tooth tips should be symmetrical and rounded. Hooked, pointed, or shark-fin-shaped teeth mean the sprocket is worn.
The rear sprocket is easier to examine. Look at the tooth profile from the side with good lighting. The same hooked tooth appearance indicates wear.
Installing a new chain on worn sprockets wastes money. The new chain will wear rapidly, trying to conform to the damaged tooth’s profile. Worn sprockets on a new chain produce the skipping, noise, and accelerated wear of a chain that appears to be already failing.
Always replace the chain and both sprockets as a complete set.
When to Replace: A Practical Summary
- Replace your XSR700 drive chain when any of the following apply.
- The 20-link measurement reaches 323mm or greater on a 520-pitch chain.
- The adjuster bolts are at or near the rearmost limit of their travel range.
- The chain lifts significantly away from the rear sprocket teeth in the lift test.
- Any visual damage is present, including stiff links, cracked seals, bent plates, or heavy rust.
- You feel skipping, rough drivetrain vibration, or irregular power delivery during riding.
The chain has covered approximately 20,000 to 25,000 km since the last replacement, regardless of visual condition. At that mileage, the internal components are at or near their service limits.
Choosing the Replacement Chain
The XSR 700 uses a 520-size chain. Confirm the link count for your specific model year before ordering.
X-ring chains offer longer service life than O-ring chains due to the improved seal design that better retains internal grease. For a bike used regularly, the additional cost of an X-ring chain is a worthwhile investment.
Sourcing your replacement Yamaha XSR 700 drive chain from a reliable supplier ensures correct specifications, accurate link count, and appropriate seal type for your model year.
Always replace the complete chain and sprocket kit at the same time. This is the only way to ensure the new components work together correctly from the first kilometer.
Conclusion
A drive chain gives you plenty of warning before it fails. The signs are measurable, visible, and audible if you know what to look for.
Check it regularly. Measure it accurately when in doubt. Replace it on time with matching sprockets.
A well-maintained drivetrain on the XSR 700 is smooth, quiet, and efficient. It delivers the engine’s power to the rear wheel the way it was designed to. Keeping the chain in good condition keeps that performance exactly where it belongs.
Shop the Yamaha XSR 700 drive chain for 2018 to 2020 models at AliWheels.
